SCIENTIFIC EVIDENCE

Vitamin A (as Beta-Carotene)

Vitamin A (as Beta-Carotene)

Background
Vitamin A is an essential nutrient that supports vision, skin health, immunity, and cell growth. In supplements, it is often provided as beta-carotene, a plant-based precursor that the body converts into active vitamin A (retinol). 
For skin, vitamin A supports cell growth and the normal turnover of skin cells.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
 Beta-carotene is naturally found in colorful fruits and vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes, spinach, and kale. For centuries, diets rich in these foods were linked to healthy skin and eyesight. In modern supplements, beta-carotene is used as a safe, plant-based source of vitamin A.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
 Beta-carotene (C40H56) is a carotenoid pigment. In the body, it is split by the enzyme beta-carotene 15,15’-dioxygenase into two molecules of retinal, which can then be converted to retinol (vitamin A). This active form supports skin, vision, and immune function.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
 Beta-carotene is absorbed in the small intestine, especially when taken with dietary fat. Its absorption rate depends on individual needs—if vitamin A levels are low, conversion to retinol increases. Excess beta-carotene is stored in fat tissue and skin, sometimes giving the skin a golden glow.

Current Availability and Use
 Beta-carotene supplements have been widely available since the 1970s. It is used in multivitamins, skin health formulas, and as a natural food coloring.

Clinical Features

  • Skin protection: In a review of seven human studies, beta-carotene taken by mouth for at least 10 weeks was followed by less skin redness after UV light. Beta-carotene is not a sunscreen.
  • Anti-aging: In a 90-day study of women over 50, 30 mg of beta-carotene a day was followed by better wrinkle and elasticity measures and a rise in a marker of new collagen.
  • Vision health: Supports normal vision.

Dosing
Dermal Radiance provides 1,506 mcg RAE of vitamin A as beta-carotene per serving (167% of the Daily Value). That is about 3 mg (3,000 mcg) of beta-carotene. Best absorbed with a meal containing fat. Available in capsules, softgels, and multivitamin blends.

Safety
 Beta-carotene is considered safe, especially compared to synthetic retinol, which can be toxic at high doses. High intakes may cause carotenodermia (orange skin tint), which is harmless. Large amounts of beta-carotene (20 mg to 30 mg a day) are not advised for people who smoke or used to smoke, or who have worked with asbestos. Unlike preformed vitamin A, beta-carotene is not known to cause birth defects. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before you take any supplement.

Mechanism of Action

  • Collagen stimulation: Retinoids increase collagen synthesis in skin fibroblasts.
  • Cell turnover: Promotes healthy keratinocyte renewal for smooth skin.
  • Antioxidant activity: Neutralizes free radicals from UV exposure.
  • Immune regulation: Enhances skin’s immune barrier.

1. National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements. Vitamin A and Carotenoids: Fact Sheet for Health Professionals. Updated March 10, 2025. https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/VitaminA-HealthProfessional/
2. Köpcke W, Krutmann J. Protection from sunburn with beta-carotene: a meta-analysis. Photochem Photobiol. 2008;84(2):284-288. doi:10.1111/j.1751-1097.2007.00253.x. PMID: 18086246.
3. Stahl W, Heinrich U, Jungmann H, Sies H, Tronnier H. Carotenoids and carotenoids plus vitamin E protect against ultraviolet light-induced erythema in humans. Am J Clin Nutr. 2000;71(3):795-798. doi:10.1093/ajcn/71.3.795. PMID: 10702175.
4. Cho S, Lee DH, Won CH, Kim SM, Lee S, Lee MJ, Chung JH. Differential effects of low-dose and high-dose beta-carotene supplementation on the signs of photoaging and type I procollagen gene expression in human skin in vivo. Dermatology. 2010;221(2):160-171. doi:10.1159/000305548. PMID: 20516658.
5. Heinrich U, Gärtner C, Wiebusch M, Eichler O, Sies H, Tronnier H, Stahl W. Supplementation with beta-carotene or a similar amount of mixed carotenoids protects humans from UV-induced erythema. J Nutr. 2003;133(1):98-101. doi:10.1093/jn/133.1.98. PMID: 12514275.
6. Stahl W, Sies H. Beta-carotene and other carotenoids in protection from sunlight. Am J Clin Nutr. 2012;96(5):1179S-1184S. doi:10.3945/ajcn.112.034819. PMID: 23053552.

Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid)

Vitamin C (Ascorbic acid)

Background
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a water-soluble vitamin essential for skin, immune, and connective tissue health. It is one of the most important antioxidants in the body, protecting cells from free radical damage. For skin, vitamin C supports normal collagen formation and helps protect cells from oxidative stress

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
 Vitamin C is found naturally in citrus fruits, berries, peppers, and leafy greens. Historically, sailors carried citrus fruits to prevent scurvy, a disease caused by vitamin C deficiency. Today, ascorbic acid is widely used in supplements and skincare for its antioxidant and collagen-boosting benefits.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
 Ascorbic acid (C6H8O6) is the active form of vitamin C. It acts as a reducing agent, donating electrons to neutralize free radicals. It also regenerates other antioxidants, such as vitamin E, and serves as a cofactor for collagen-producing enzymes.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
 Vitamin C is absorbed in the small intestine through active transport and passive diffusion. Plasma levels peak within 2–3 hours of intake. Because the body does not store large amounts, regular intake is required. Excess is excreted in urine.

Current Availability and Use
 Ascorbic acid supplements have been available since the 1930s. They are sold in tablets, capsules, powders, chewables, and topical serums. In skin formulas, vitamin C is a cornerstone ingredient for radiance and wrinkle prevention.

Clinical Features

  • Collagen support: Vitamin C is needed for normal collagen formation, which supports skin structure. In a survey of 4,025 American women, those who ate less vitamin C were more likely to have a wrinkled skin appearance.
  • Skin brightening: In lab studies, vitamin C slows an enzyme involved in making skin pigment. Most human studies on skin tone used vitamin C creams.
  • Antioxidant defense: Vitamin C is an antioxidant. It helps protect cells from oxidative stress.
  • Wound healing: Speeds skin repair by supporting connective tissue.
  • Immune and skin link: Stronger immunity reduces skin inflammation and breakouts.

Dosing
 RDA: 75 mg daily for women, 90 mg for men. Dermal Radiance provides 150 mg of vitamin C per serving (167% of the Daily Value). Adults need 75 mg (women) to 90 mg (men) a day. The adult upper limit is 2,000 mg a day from all sources.

 Available as ascorbic acid, buffered forms (sodium ascorbate), and liposomal vitamin C for enhanced absorption.

Safety
 Vitamin C is very safe. High doses (>2000 mg/day) may cause diarrhea, nausea, or kidney stones in sensitive individuals. Safe in children and pregnancy at recommended levels.

Mechanism of Action

  • Collagen synthesis: Cofactor for prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase enzymes, stabilizing collagen.
  • Antioxidant activity: Neutralizes ROS (reactive oxygen species) from UV exposure.
  • Melanin regulation: Inhibits tyrosinase enzyme, brightening skin tone.
  • Immune modulation: Enhances white blood cell activity for skin protection.
  • Vitamin E recycling: Restores oxidized vitamin E to active form, enhancing skin defense.

1. Pullar JM, Carr AC, Vissers MCM. The roles of vitamin C in skin health. Nutrients. 2017;9(8):866. doi:10.3390/nu9080866. PMID: 28805671.
2. Cosgrove MC, Franco OH, Granger SP, Murray PG, Mayes AE. Dietary nutrient intakes and skin-aging appearance among middle-aged American women. Am J Clin Nutr. 2007;86(4):1225-1231. doi:10.1093/ajcn/86.4.1225. PMID: 17921406.
3. McArdle F, Rhodes LE, Parslew R, Jack CIA, Friedmann PS, Jackson MJ. UVR-induced oxidative stress in human skin in vivo: effects of oral vitamin C supplementation. Free Radic Biol Med. 2002;33(10):1355-1362. doi:10.1016/S0891-5849(02)01042-0. PMID: 12419467.
4. Žmitek K, et al. Nutrients. 2024;16(12):1908. doi:10.3390/nu16121908. PMID: 38931263.
5. National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements. Vitamin C: Fact Sheet for Health Professionals. https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/VitaminC-HealthProfessional/

Vitamin D₃ (as Cholecalciferol)

Vitamin D₃ (as Cholecalciferol)

Background

Vitamin D₃ (cholecalciferol) is a fat-soluble vitamin that supports bone, immune, and skin health. Known as the "sunshine vitamin," it is produced in the skin when exposed to sunlight. For skin, vitamin D₃ helps regulate cell growth, repair, and immune balance, which are essential for smooth, clear, and youthful skin.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use

Vitamin D₃ is found naturally in fatty fish, egg yolks, and fortified dairy products. Historically, cod liver oil was a common source of vitamin D. Today, vitamin D₃ is the preferred supplemental form because it is identical to the vitamin D made in human skin.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition

Cholecalciferol (C27H44O) is the active compound. Once in the body, it is converted in the liver to calcidiol (25-hydroxyvitamin D) and then in the kidneys to calcitriol, the active hormone form that regulates calcium, immunity, and skin cell turnover.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism

Vitamin D₃ is absorbed in the small intestine with dietary fat and carried in the blood by vitamin D–binding protein. It has better bioavailability than vitamin D₂. The liver converts it to calcidiol, which is measured in blood tests, while the kidneys convert it to calcitriol, the active hormone.

Current Availability and Use
Vitamin D₃ supplements have been widely used since the 1930s to support normal bones. They are available in capsules, tablets, drops, gummies, and as part of multivitamins and skin-health formulas.

Clinical Features

  • Skin health: In cell and animal studies, vitamin D helps control how skin cells grow and mature. In a study of 83 women, higher blood vitamin D went with higher skin moisture readings.
  • Immune function: Vitamin D contributes to the normal function of the immune system.
  • Response to UV light: In cell and mouse studies, active vitamin D was followed by less UV-related DNA damage. Vitamin D is not a sunscreen

Dosing

RDA: 600 IU (15 mcg) daily for adults; 800 IU (20 mcg) for those over 70.Dermal Radiance provides 25 mcg (1,000 IU) of vitamin D₃ per serving (125% of the Daily Value). Best taken with food containing fat.

Safety

Generally safe at recommended levels. Excess (>4000 IU/day long-term) can cause hypercalcemia, with symptoms like nausea or kidney stress. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before you take any supplement.

Mechanism of Action

  • Gene regulation: Calcitriol binds to vitamin D receptors (VDR) in skin cells, influencing over 200 genes.
  • Keratinocyte control: Regulates growth and differentiation of skin cells.
  • Immune modulation: Reduces pro-inflammatory cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α).
  • Barrier function: Enhances lipid production for a stronger skin barrier.
  1. National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements. Vitamin D: Fact Sheet for Health Professionals. https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/VitaminD-HealthProfessional/
  2. Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. Micronutrient Information Center: Vitamin D and Skin Health. Updated January 2, 2026. https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/vitamin-D
  3. Holick MF. Vitamin D deficiency. N Engl J Med. 2007;357(3):266-281. doi:10.1056/NEJMra070553. PMID: 17634462.
  4. Bikle DD. Vitamin D metabolism and function in the skin. Mol Cell Endocrinol. 2011;347(1-2):80-89. doi:10.1016/j.mce.2011.05.017. PMID: 21664236.
  5. Scott JF, Das LM, Ahsanuddin S, Qiu Y, Binko AM, Traylor ZP, Debanne SM, Cooper KD, Boxer R, Lu KQ. Oral vitamin D rapidly attenuates inflammation from sunburn: an interventional study. J Invest Dermatol. 2017;137(10):2078-2086. doi:10.1016/j.jid.2017.04.040. PMID: 28576736.
  6. Russell M. Assessing the relationship between vitamin D3 and stratum corneum hydration for the treatment of xerotic skin. Nutrients. 2012;4(9):1213-1218. doi:10.3390/nu4091213. PMID: 23112909.
Vitamin E (as Alpha tocopherol acetate)

Vitamin E (as Alpha tocopherol acetate)

Background
Vitamin E is a fat-soluble vitamin and one of the body's main antioxidants. In supplements, it is often provided as alpha tocopherol acetate, a stable form that protects the vitamin until it is absorbed. For skin, vitamin E helps reduce oxidative stress, protect against UV damage, and improve moisture and elasticity.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
Vitamin E is found naturally in nuts, seeds, vegetable oils, spinach, and avocado. It was first discovered in 1922 as an essential nutrient for reproduction and was later found to play key roles in skin and immune health. Historically, vitamin E oils have been used topically to soothe dry skin and speed wound healing.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
Alpha tocopherol (C29H50O2) is the most active form of vitamin E in humans. In supplements, the acetate form is used for better stability. Once ingested, it is converted to alpha tocopherol, which acts as a strong lipid-soluble antioxidant in skin and cell membranes.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
Vitamin E is absorbed in the small intestine along with dietary fats. It is transported in the blood by lipoproteins and stored mainly in fat tissue and the liver. The acetate form is converted into active vitamin E after absorption.

Current Availability and Use
Vitamin E supplements have been widely available since the 1940s. Today, it is sold in capsules, softgels, oils, creams, and included in many skin-health formulas.

Clinical Features

  • UV protection: In human studies, vitamin E taken by mouth with vitamin C was followed by less skin redness after UV light. The studies ran from one week to three months. Vitamin E is not a sunscreen.
  • Anti-aging: Vitamin E is the most abundant fat-soluble antioxidant in human skin.
  • Antioxidant defense: Neutralizes free radicals that accelerate skin aging.

(Moisture/hydration and Wound healing bullets removed — no verified source, per corrections #73 and #75)

Dosing

RDA: 15 mg (22.4 IU) daily for adults. 
Dermal Radiance provides 20.1 mg of vitamin E per serving (134% of the Daily Value). Best taken with food containing fat. Available in capsules, softgels, oils, and creams.

Safety
Vitamin E is generally safe. The upper limit for adults is 1,000 mg a day from supplements. High doses may increase bleeding risk. People who take blood thinners need care with large amounts, mainly above 400 IU a day. Safe in pregnancy and breastfeeding at recommended levels.

Mechanism of Action

  • Antioxidant defense: Neutralizes reactive oxygen species in skin lipids.
  • Barrier support: Reaches the skin surface through sebum, the natural oil of the skin.
  • Immune modulation: Enhances T-cell function, supporting skin defense.
  • Synergy with vitamin C: Vitamin C can regenerate oxidized vitamin E, which extends its antioxidant activity.

  1. National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements. Vitamin E: Fact Sheet for Health Professionals. Updated March 26, 2021. https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/VitaminE-HealthProfessional/
  2. Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. Micronutrient Information Center: Vitamin E and Skin Health. Updated January 2, 2026. https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/vitamin-E
  3. McArdle F, Rhodes LE, Parslew RAG, Close GL, Jack CIA, Friedmann PS, Jackson MJ. Effects of oral vitamin E and beta-carotene supplementation on ultraviolet radiation-induced oxidative stress in human skin. Am J Clin Nutr. 2004;80(5):1270-1275. doi:10.1093/ajcn/80.5.1270. PMID: 15531675.
  4. Mireles-Rocha H, Galindo I, Huerta M, Trujillo-Hernández B, Elizalde A, Cortés-Franco R. UVB photoprotection with antioxidants: effects of oral therapy with d-alpha-tocopherol and ascorbic acid on the minimal erythema dose. Acta Derm Venereol. 2002;82(1):21-24. doi:10.1080/000155502753600830. PMID: 12013192.
  5. Placzek M, Gaube S, Kerkmann U, Gilbertz KP, Herzinger T, Haen E, Przybilla B. Ultraviolet B-induced DNA damage in human epidermis is modified by the antioxidants ascorbic acid and D-alpha-tocopherol. J Invest Dermatol. 2005;124(2):304-307. doi:10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.23560.x. PMID: 15675947.
  6. Niki E. Role of vitamin E as a lipid-soluble peroxyl radical scavenger: in vitro and in vivo evidence. Free Radic Biol Med. 2014;66:3-12. doi:10.1016/j.freeradbiomed.2013.03.022. PMID: 23557727.
  7. Eberlein-König B, Placzek M, Przybilla B. Protective effect against sunburn of combined systemic ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and d-alpha-tocopherol (vitamin E). J Am Acad Dermatol. 1998;38(1):45-48. doi:10.1016/S0190-9622(98)70537-7. PMID: 9448204.
  8. Fuchs J, Kern H. Modulation of UV-light-induced skin inflammation by D-alpha-tocopherol and L-ascorbic acid: a clinical study using solar simulated radiation. Free Radic Biol Med. 1998;25(9):1006-1012. doi:10.1016/S0891-5849(98)00132-4. PMID: 9870553.
Riboflavin (as Vitamin B2)

Riboflavin (as Vitamin B2)

Background
Riboflavin, also known as vitamin B2, is a water-soluble vitamin that plays a vital role in energy production, cellular growth, and antioxidant defense. For skin, riboflavin supports tissue repair, reduces inflammation, and helps maintain a healthy glow. It is an essential nutrient, meaning it must be obtained from food or supplements.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
Riboflavin is found naturally in milk, eggs, leafy greens, nuts, and whole grains. It was first identified in the 1930s as part of the vitamin B complex. Historically, diets rich in riboflavin were linked with healthy skin and resistance to cracks or sores around the mouth.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
Riboflavin (C17H20N4O6) acts as a precursor for coenzymes flavin mononucleotide (FMN) and flavin adenine dinucleotide (FAD). These coenzymes are critical for energy metabolism, antioxidant activity, and cellular repair.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
Riboflavin is absorbed in the small intestine through active transport. It peaks in the bloodstream within 2–3 hours of intake. Because it is water-soluble, excess amounts are excreted in urine, often giving it a bright yellow color.

Current Availability and Use
Riboflavin supplements have been available since the 1940s and are commonly included in B-complex vitamins. It is widely used to support energy, skin, and eye health.

Clinical Features

  • Skin and lips: A lack of riboflavin can cause skin disorders and cracks at the corners of the mouth.
  • Antioxidant defense: Riboflavin supports glutathione recycling, protecting skin cells from oxidative damage.
  • Energy: Riboflavin is needed for energy production in cells.

Dosing
RDA: 1.1 mg/day for women and 1.3 mg/day for men. Dermal Radiance provides 50 mg of riboflavin per serving (3,846% of the Daily Value). Best taken with meals. Available in capsules, tablets, and multivitamins.

Safety
Riboflavin is very safe, even at higher doses, since excess is excreted. No serious side effects are reported. Safe in pregnancy, breastfeeding, and childhood at recommended intakes.

Mechanism of Action

  • Energy production: FMN and FAD act in the enzymes that supply energy to cells.
  • Glutathione recycling: The enzyme that recycles the antioxidant glutathione depends on riboflavin.
  1. Powers HJ. Am J Clin Nutr. 2003;77(6):1352-1360. doi:10.1093/ajcn/77.6.1352. PMID:12791609.
  2. National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements. Riboflavin: Fact Sheet for Health Professionals. Updated May 11, 2022. https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/Riboflavin-HealthProfessional/
  3. Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. Micronutrient Information Center: Riboflavin. Updated February 3, 2026. https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/vitamins/riboflavin
  4. European Commission. Commission Regulation (EU) No 432/2012 establishing a list of permitted health claims made on foods. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2012/432
Niacin (as Niacinamide)

Niacin (as Niacinamide)

Background
Niacin, also called vitamin B3, is a water-soluble vitamin essential for energy, skin health, and nervous system function. In supplements, it is often provided as niacinamide, a form that does not cause skin flushing. For skin, niacinamide helps reduce redness, improve barrier strength, and fade dark spots.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
 Niacin is found naturally in meats, fish, nuts, and whole grains. Pellagra, a disease caused by niacin deficiency, was first identified in the 18th century and was marked by rough skin, diarrhea, and fatigue. Supplementing with niacin or niacinamide prevented and reversed this condition, showing its importance for skin health.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
 Niacinamide (C6H6N2O) is converted in the body into coenzymes NAD+ (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) and NADP+. These molecules fuel cellular energy production, DNA repair, and antioxidant defense in skin cells.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
 Niacinamide is easily absorbed in the small intestine and reaches peak blood levels within 1–2 hours. It circulates in the body and is stored briefly in tissues. Excess amounts are excreted in urine, making regular intake necessary.

Current Availability and Use
 Niacinamide supplements and topical serums have become very popular in dermatology and skincare. It is widely available in multivitamins, B-complex products, and skin-health formulas.

Clinical Features

  • Barrier repair: In cultured skin cells, niacinamide raised the production of ceramides, the fats that help the outer skin hold water.
  • Anti-aging: In cell studies, skin cells given niacinamide made more collagen and elastin. In a 12-week trial, a cream with 5% niacinamide improved fine lines and skin elasticity. That trial used a cream, not a supplement.
  • Skin brightening: In lab models of skin, niacinamide slowed the movement of pigment between skin cells.
  • Antioxidant defense: In lab studies, niacinamide lowered oxidative stress in skin cells. It is not a sunscreen.

Dosing
 RDA: 14 mg/day for women, 16 mg/day for men. Dermal Radiance provides 250 mg of niacinamide per serving (1,563% of the Daily Value) Available in capsules, tablets, multivitamins, and topical creams or serums.

Safety
 Niacinamide is safe at recommended doses. Nausea, vomiting and signs of liver harm can occur at 3,000 mg a day. The US upper limit for supplemental niacin is 35 mg a day and is based on flushing, which niacinamide does not cause. The European upper limit for niacinamide is 900 mg a day. Unlike niacin, niacinamide does not cause flushing. Dermal Radiance is made for adults. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before use

Mechanism of Action

  • NAD+/NADP+ production: Fuels cellular energy and DNA repair.
  • Barrier strengthening: Stimulates ceramide and lipid synthesis in the skin.
  • Collagen protection: Reduces glycation and oxidative damage to dermal proteins.
  • Anti-inflammatory: Lowers cytokines (IL-6, TNF-α) linked to acne and redness.
  • Melanin regulation: Blocks pigment transfer from melanocytes to skin cells.

1. National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements. Niacin: Fact Sheet for Health Professionals. https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/Niacin-HealthProfessional/
2. Boo YC. Mechanistic basis and clinical evidence for the applications of nicotinamide (niacinamide) to control skin aging and pigmentation. Antioxidants (Basel). 2021;10(8):1315. doi:10.3390/antiox10081315. PMID: 34439563.
3. Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):860-865. doi:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31732. PMID: 16029679.
4. Yiasemides E, Sivapirabu G, Halliday GM, Park J, Damian DL. Oral nicotinamide protects against ultraviolet radiation-induced immunosuppression in humans. Carcinogenesis. 2009;30(1):101-105. doi:10.1093/carcin/bgn248. PMID: 19028705.
5. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies. Scientific Opinion on the substantiation of health claims related to niacin. EFSA Journal. 2010;8(10):1757. doi:10.2903/j.efsa.2010.1757.

Vitamin B12 (as Methylcobalamin)

Vitamin B12 (as Methylcobalamin)

Background
Vitamin B12 is a water-soluble vitamin essential for red blood cell formation, nervous system function, and DNA synthesis. In supplements, it is often provided as methylcobalamin, the active form that is easily used by the body. Vitamin B12 is needed to make DNA, which every new cell needs.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
Vitamin B12 is naturally found in animal-based foods such as fish, meat, eggs, and dairy. Since it is not present in plants, deficiencies are more common in vegetarians and vegans.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
Methylcobalamin (C63H91CoN13O14P) is one of the active coenzyme forms of vitamin B12. It contains cobalt at its center and is critical for two main enzyme reactions: methionine synthase (DNA and protein production) and methylmalonyl-CoA mutase (energy metabolism).

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
Vitamin B12 is absorbed in the small intestine with the help of intrinsic factor, a protein made in the stomach. Methylcobalamin is one of the two forms of vitamin B12 that are active in the body. Once absorbed, it is stored in the liver and can last for years.

Current Availability and Use
Methylcobalamin supplements are widely available in capsules, tablets, sprays, and sublingual forms. It is often included in B-complex formulas and skin-health supplements.

Clinical Features

  • Skin, hair and nails: A lack of vitamin B12 can cause pale skin, and changes in skin color, hair and nails.
  • DNA: Vitamin B12 is needed to make DNA.
  • Red blood cells: Vitamin B12 is needed for healthy red blood cells

Dosing
RDA: 2.4 mcg/day for adults. Dermal Radiance provides 100 mcg of vitamin B12 as methylcobalamin per serving (4,167% of the Daily Value). Take with a meal, as the label directs.

Safety
Vitamin B12 is very safe, with no known toxicity even at high doses. Vitamin B12 given as a medical treatment has been linked with acne and rosacea in some people. Dermal Radiance is for adults. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before you take any supplement.

Mechanism of Action

  • DNA synthesis: Supports rapid turnover of skin cells.
  • Methionine pathway: Helps turn homocysteine into methionine
  • Red blood cell formation: Vitamin B12 is needed for healthy red blood cells.
  • Nervous system: Vitamin B12 is needed for the normal function of the nervous system.

  1. O'Leary F, et al. Nutrients. 2010;2(3):299-316. doi:10.3390/nu2030299. PMID:22254022.
  2. Allen LH. How common is vitamin B-12 deficiency? Am J Clin Nutr. 2009;89(2):693S-696S. doi:10.3945/ajcn.2008.26947A. PMID: 19116323.
  3. National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements. Vitamin B12: Fact Sheet for Health Professionals. Updated July 2, 2025. https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/VitaminB12-HealthProfessional/
  4. Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. Micronutrient Information Center: Vitamin B12. Updated October 2023. https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/vitamins/vitamin-B12
  5. European Commission. Commission Regulation (EU) No 432/2012 establishing a list of permitted health claims made on foods. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2012/432
  6. Brescoll J, Daveluy SD. A review of vitamin B12 in dermatology. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2015;16(1):27-33. doi:10.1007/s40257-014-0107-3. PMID: 25559140.
Biotin

Biotin

Background
Biotin, also known as vitamin B7, is a water-soluble vitamin that plays a major role in energy metabolism and the production of keratin, the main protein in skin, hair, and nails. It is often called the “beauty vitamin” because of its connection to healthy skin glow, strong nails, and fuller hair.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
 Biotin is naturally found in foods like eggs, nuts, seeds, salmon, and leafy greens. It was first identified in the 1930s, when scientists linked deficiency to skin rashes, hair loss, and brittle nails. Historically, diets rich in biotin-containing foods were associated with healthy skin and strong nails.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
 Biotin (C₁₀H₁₆N₂O₃S) acts as a coenzyme for carboxylase enzymes. These enzymes are important for fatty acid synthesis, glucose metabolism, and amino acid breakdown—processes that fuel skin cell growth and keratin production.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
 Biotin is absorbed in the small intestine through active transport. It is stored in small amounts in the liver and excreted in urine, so regular intake is necessary. The body also receives biotin from gut bacteria that produce it naturally.

Current Availability and Use
 Biotin has become a popular supplement for skin, hair, and nail support. It is widely available as capsules, tablets, gummies, and included in beauty-focused formulas.

Clinical Features

  • Skin glow: Biotin deficiency causes rashes, dryness, and dull skin, which improve quickly with supplementation.
  • Keratin support: 
    In three small studies, people with thin or brittle nails had firmer or thicker nails after taking biotin for several months.
  • Nail health: In small studies, people with brittle nails who took 2.5 mg of biotin a day had firmer, thicker nails after 5 to 15 months.
  • Hair benefits: Helps reduce thinning and shedding in people with low biotin levels.
  • Metabolic support: Improves fat and amino acid metabolism, fueling skin cell renewal.

Dosing
Adults need about 30 mcg of biotin a day (Adequate Intake). Dermal Radiance provides 300 mcg per serving, which is 1,000% of the Daily Value. Available in capsules, tablets, and gummies.

Safety
 Biotin is very safe, even at high doses. It is water-soluble, so excess is excreted. No major side effects are known. Very high doses may interfere with certain lab tests (e.g., thyroid or heart markers). If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before use.

Mechanism of Action

  • Keratin production: Supports structural proteins in skin, hair, and nails.
  • Energy metabolism: Acts as a cofactor for enzymes producing cellular energy.
  • Fatty acid synthesis: Fuels lipid production for healthy skin barrier.
  • Gene regulation: Influences expression of keratin-related genes.
  • Microbiome contribution: Works with gut bacteria that supply biotin naturally.

1. National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements. Biotin: Fact Sheet for Health Professionals. https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/Biotin-HealthProfessional/
2. Patel DP, Swink SM, Castelo-Soccio L. A review of the use of biotin for hair loss. Skin Appendage Disord. 2017;3(3):166-169. doi:10.1159/000462981. PMID: 28879195.
3. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies. Scientific Opinion on the substantiation of health claims related to biotin. EFSA Journal. 2010;8(10):1728. doi:10.2903/j.efsa.2010.1728.

Pantothenic Acid (as Pantothenate)

Pantothenic Acid (as Pantothenate)

Background
Pantothenic acid, also known as vitamin B5, is a water-soluble vitamin that is essential for making coenzyme A, a molecule needed for energy metabolism and fatty acid production. In a lab study, skin cells multiplied more slowly without pantothenic acid.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
The name "pantothenic" comes from the Greek word pantothen, meaning "from everywhere," since this vitamin is found in almost all foods. Rich sources include eggs, whole grains, mushrooms, chicken, and avocados

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
Pantothenic acid (C₉H₁₇NO₅) is converted in the body into coenzyme A (CoA), which is essential for fatty acid metabolism, energy production, and the synthesis of hormones and skin lipids.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
Pantothenic acid is absorbed in the small intestine through active transport. Once in the bloodstream, it is widely distributed to tissues. The body uses it to create CoA, which drives metabolic reactions in skin cells. Excess amounts are excreted in urine.

Current Availability and Use
Pantothenate is available in capsules, tablets, powders, and multivitamins. It is often used in skin-health supplements and topical creams, where it appears as panthenol, a form that hydrates and soothes the skin.

Clinical Features

  • Skin cells (lab study): Without pantothenic acid, skin cells multiplied more slowly.
  • Skin hydration (cream study): Seven days of a dexpanthenol cream improved skin hydration and lowered water loss, compared with the cream alone.

Dosing
RDA: 5 mg/day for adults.  
Dermal Radiance provides 50 mg of pantothenic acid per serving (1,000% of the Daily Value). Available in oral capsules, multivitamins, and topical creams (panthenol).

Safety
Pantothenic acid is very safe, even at high doses. Very large doses may cause mild diarrhea or stomach upset. Dermal Radiance is for adults. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before you take any supplement.

Mechanism of Action

  • CoA synthesis: Provides coenzyme A, critical for fatty acid and energy metabolism.
  • Fatty acids: Coenzyme A is needed to make and break down fatty acids.
  • Collagen (lab study): Without pantothenic acid, fibroblasts made less of an early form of collagen.
  • Cell growth (lab study): Skin cells need pantothenic acid to multiply at a normal rate.
  1. National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements. Pantothenic Acid: Fact Sheet for Health Professionals. Updated May 1, 2026. https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/PantothenicAcid-HealthProfessional/
  2. Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. Micronutrient Information Center: Pantothenic Acid. Updated April 2023. https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/vitamins/pantothenic-acid
  3. European Commission. Commission Regulation (EU) No 432/2012 establishing a list of permitted health claims made on foods. https://eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2012/432
  4. Kobayashi D, Kusama M, Onda M, Nakahata N. The effect of pantothenic acid deficiency on keratinocyte proliferation and the synthesis of keratinocyte growth factor and collagen in fibroblasts. J Pharmacol Sci. 2011;115(2):230-234. doi:10.1254/jphs.10224SC. PMID: 21258175.
  5. Gehring W, Gloor M. Effect of topically applied dexpanthenol on epidermal barrier function and stratum corneum hydration. Results of a human in vivo study. Arzneimittelforschung. 2000;50(7):659-663. doi:10.1055/s-0031-1300268. PMID: 10965426.
Zinc (as Zinc picolinate)

Zinc (as Zinc picolinate)

Background
Zinc is an essential trace mineral that supports immunity, wound healing, and skin health. In supplements, it is often provided as zinc picolinate, a form with high absorption. For skin, zinc is needed for cell division, protein synthesis and wound healing, and skin holds about 5% of the body's zinc

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
 Zinc is naturally found in oysters, beef, poultry, beans, seeds, and nuts. Its importance was first recognized in the 1960s, when zinc deficiency was linked to delayed growth, poor wound healing, and skin rashes. Traditionally, zinc-based ointments were used to treat wounds and skin irritation.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
 Zinc picolinate is zinc bound to picolinic acid, which improves absorption in the intestine. Zinc itself is a cofactor for over 300 enzymes that regulate protein synthesis, cell growth, and immune balance—all essential for skin renewal.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
 Zinc picolinate has been shown in studies to be more bioavailable than other forms like zinc citrate or gluconate. Once absorbed, zinc is distributed to tissues, especially skin, hair, and nails. Excess amounts are excreted in urine and stool.

Current Availability and Use
 Zinc picolinate has been widely available since the 1980s and is often used in immune, skin, and hair supplements. It is sold in capsules, tablets, and multivitamin blends.

Clinical Features

  • Wound healing: Zinc is involved in wound healing. In animal studies, a zinc transporter was needed for collagen to be laid down in the deeper skin layer.
  • Anti-inflammatory: Lowers cytokines that trigger redness and irritation.
  • UV protection: Acts as an antioxidant, reducing free radical damage from sunlight.

Dosing
 RDA: 8 mg/day for women, 11 mg/day for men. Dermal Radiance provides 30 mg of zinc per serving, as zinc picolinate (273% of the Daily Value). The adult upper limit is 40 mg a day from food and supplements together Best taken with food to prevent nausea.

Safety
Generally safe at recommended doses. The adult upper limit is 40 mg a day from food and supplements together. Higher intakes over time can lower copper levels. If you take another supplement with zinc, add up your total. Safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding at RDA levels.

Mechanism of Action

  • Enzyme cofactor: Supports enzymes involved in collagen synthesis and repair.
  • Oil regulation: Balances activity of sebaceous glands.
  • Anti-inflammatory: Reduces IL-6 and TNF-α, calming acne-prone skin.
  • Immune defense: Enhances white blood cell function to fight skin infections.
  • Antioxidant: Stabilizes cell membranes and reduces oxidative stress.

1. National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements. Zinc: Fact Sheet for Health Professionals. https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/Zinc-HealthProfessional/
2. Ogawa Y, Kinoshita M, Shimada S, Kawamura T. Zinc and skin disorders. Nutrients. 2018;10(2):199. doi:10.3390/nu10020199. PMID: 29439479.
3. Barrie SA, Wright JV, Pizzorno JE, Kutter E, Barron PC. Comparative absorption of zinc picolinate, zinc citrate and zinc gluconate in humans. Agents Actions. 1987;21(1-2):223-228. doi:10.1007/BF01974946. PMID: 3630857.
4. Devarshi PP, Mao Q, Grant RW, Mitmesser SH. Comparative absorption and bioavailability of various chemical forms of zinc in humans: a narrative review. Nutrients. 2024;16(24):4269. doi:10.3390/nu16244269. PMID: 39770891.
5. Prasad AS. Zinc in human health: effect of zinc on immune cells. Mol Med. 2008;14(5-6):353-357. doi:10.2119/2008-00033.Prasad. PMID: 18385818.
6. EFSA Panel on Dietetic Products, Nutrition and Allergies. Scientific Opinion on the substantiation of health claims related to zinc. EFSA Journal. 2010;8(10):1819. doi:10.2903/j.efsa.2010.1819.

Selenium (as Sodium selenate)

Selenium (as Sodium selenate)

Background
Selenium is an essential trace mineral that plays a powerful role in antioxidant defense, thyroid function, and immune balance. In supplements, it is often provided as sodium selenate, a stable and well-absorbed form. For skin, selenium is part of the antioxidant enzymes that protect skin cells.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
Selenium is found naturally in Brazil nuts, seafood, eggs, and whole grains. Its importance for health was first discovered in the 1950s, when deficiencies were linked to poor growth, immune weakness, and skin issues. In traditional diets, selenium-rich foods were often tied to long-lasting vitality.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
Sodium selenate (Na2SeO4) delivers selenium in a form the body can easily use. Selenium is incorporated into selenoproteins, such as glutathione peroxidase, which protect cells from oxidative damage and regulate inflammation.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
Selenium from sodium selenate is absorbed in the small intestine with high efficiency. Once in the bloodstream, it is used to form selenocysteine, the active amino acid that is built into selenoproteins. These proteins act as antioxidants and metabolic regulators.

Current Availability and Use

Selenium supplements have been widely available since the 1970s and are often included in multivitamins, antioxidant blends, and skin-health formulas.

Clinical Features

  • UV protection: In a 7-week study, a mix of selenium, vitamin E, lycopene and beta-carotene raised the amount of UV light needed to redden skin by 20%. Selenium is not a sunscreen.
  • Anti-aging: In a 12-week placebo-controlled trial, a supplement with selenium, carotenoids and vitamin E improved skin density, thickness, roughness and scaling.
  • Thyroid and skin link: Selenium plays a role in thyroid hormone metabolism.

Dosing
RDA: 55 mcg/day for adults. 
Dermal Radiance provides 200 mcg of selenium per serving (364% of the Daily Value). Best taken with food.

Safety
Safe at recommended levels. The upper limit for adults is 400 mcg a day from food and supplements together. Higher intakes over time may cause selenosis, with signs such as hair loss, brittle nails and stomach upset. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before you take any supplement.

Mechanism of Action

  • Antioxidant defense: Cofactor for glutathione peroxidase, which neutralizes ROS (reactive oxygen species).
  • Collagen protection: Contributes to the protection of cells from oxidative stress.
  • Immune balance: Regulates cytokines, reducing skin inflammation.
  • Thyroid regulation: Supports enzymes that activate thyroid hormones.
  1. Rayman MP. Lancet. 2012;379(9822):1256-1268. doi:10.1016/S0140-6736(11)61452-9. PMID:22381456.
  2. National Institutes of Health, Office of Dietary Supplements. Selenium: Fact Sheet for Health Professionals. Updated September 4, 2025. https://ods.od.nih.gov/factsheets/Selenium-HealthProfessional/
  3. Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. Micronutrient Information Center: Minerals and Skin Health. Last modified January 2, 2026. https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/health-disease/skin-health/minerals
  4. Avery JC, Hoffmann PR. Selenium, selenoproteins, and immunity. Nutrients. 2018;10(9):1203. doi:10.3390/nu10091203. PMID: 30200430.
  5. Heinrich U, Tronnier H, Stahl W, Béjot M, Maurette JM. Antioxidant supplements improve parameters related to skin structure in humans. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006;19(4):224-231. doi:10.1159/000093118. PMID: 16679825.
  6. Césarini JP, Michel L, Maurette JM, Adhoute H, Béjot M. Immediate effects of UV radiation on the skin: modification by an antioxidant complex containing carotenoids. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed. 2003;19(4):182-189. doi:10.1034/j.1600-0781.2003.00044.x. PMID: 12925189.
Milk Thistle (Silybum marianum) seed extract (80% Silymarin)

Milk Thistle (Silybum marianum) seed extract (80% Silymarin)

Background
Milk thistle (Silybum marianum) is a flowering plant native to the Mediterranean region. Its seeds are rich in silymarin, a group of antioxidant compounds that protect the liver, reduce inflammation, and support skin health. For skin, milk thistle has been studied in the lab for antioxidant activity and for its effect on the enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
Milk thistle has been used for over 2,000 years in traditional European and Middle Eastern medicine. Historically, it was taken as a traditional herb for digestion and the liver. Modern supplements focus on standardized extracts containing 70–80% silymarin.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
The main active compounds are flavonolignans, including silybin, silydianin, and silychristin. These act as strong antioxidants, membrane stabilizers, and liver protectors. Together, they help the body manage toxins and oxidative stress that can damage skin cells.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
Silymarin has moderate bioavailability, but absorption improves when taken with food or in enhanced formulations (e.g., phospholipid complexes). Once absorbed, it is metabolized in the liver and circulated to tissues, including skin.

Current Availability and Use
Milk thistle extract has been widely available since the 1970s and is commonly included in liver-support, detox, and skin-health supplements. It is sold in capsules, tablets, teas, and tinctures.

Clinical Features

  • UV protection: In lab and animal studies, silymarin lowered UV-related oxidative stress in skin. Milk thistle is not a sunscreen.
  • Anti-aging: In lab tests, silymarin slowed the enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
  • Detoxification: In Europe, milk thistle is a traditional herbal product to support liver function.

Dosing
Dermal Radiance provides 250 mg of milk thistle seed extract per serving (80% silymarin). Best taken with meals for absorption.

Safety
Milk thistle is generally safe and well tolerated. Mild side effects may include stomach upset or diarrhea. Little is known about the safety of milk thistle during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Ask your doctor before you take any supplement. People allergic to ragweed, daisies, or marigolds may also react. Milk thistle may interact with some medicines, including the blood thinner warfarin. Ask your doctor or pharmacist if you take prescription medicines.

Mechanism of Action

  • Antioxidant: Scavenges free radicals and boosts glutathione levels.
  • Collagen protection: In lab tests, slows the enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
  • Anti-inflammatory: Reduces cytokines like TNF-α and IL-6.
  • Cell repair: Stabilizes cell membranes and promotes regeneration.
  1. National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health. Milk Thistle: Usefulness and Safety. Last updated February 2025. https://www.nccih.nih.gov/health/milk-thistle
  2. Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center. About Herbs: Milk Thistle. Last updated July 22, 2026. https://www.mskcc.org/cancer-care/integrative-medicine/herbs/milk-thistle
  3. European Medicines Agency. Silybi mariani fructus (milk thistle fruit): herbal medicinal product. https://www.ema.europa.eu/medicines/herbal/silybi-mariani-fructus
  4. Vostálová J, Tinková E, Biedermann D, Kosina P, Ulrichová J, Rajnochová Svobodová A. Skin protective activity of silymarin and its flavonolignans. Molecules. 2019;24(6):1022. doi:10.3390/molecules24061022.
  5. Fehér P, Ujhelyi Z, Váradi J, et al. Efficacy of pre- and post-treatment by topical formulations containing dissolved and suspended Silybum marianum against UVB-induced oxidative stress in guinea pig and on HaCaT keratinocytes. Molecules. 2016;21(10):1269. doi:10.3390/molecules21101269.
  6. Post-White J, Ladas EJ, Kelly KM. Advances in the use of milk thistle (Silybum marianum). Integr Cancer Ther. 2007;6(2):104-109. doi:10.1177/1534735407301632. PMID: 17548789.
Polypodium Leucotomos (Calaguala) leaf extract

Polypodium Leucotomos (Calaguala) leaf extract

Background
Polypodium leucotomos is a tropical fern native to Central and South America. Its leaf extract has powerful antioxidant and photoprotective properties, meaning it helps protect skin from UV damage and oxidative stress. For skin health, it is best known for 
supporting skin exposed to daily stress. In small human studies, skin showed less redness after a measured dose of UV light

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
 The fern has been 
used in traditional practice in Central and South America for a long time
Modern research began in Spain in the late 20th century, leading to its use as an oral supplement for skin photoprotection and dermatology support.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
 The extract contains phenolic compounds such as caffeic acid, ferulic acid, vanillic acid, and chlorogenic acid. These act as antioxidants and anti-inflammatories, protecting skin cells from free radicals and UV-induced DNA damage.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
 After oral intake, its phenolic acids are absorbed in the intestine and circulate in the blood, where they reach skin tissues. They act quickly, with protective effects observed within 1–2 hours of dosing, and are metabolized by the liver before excretion.

Current Availability and Use
 Polypodium leucotomos extract is sold in capsules and tablets worldwide as a sun-protective supplement. It is often included in dermatology formulas for anti-aging, pigmentation, and inflammatory skin conditions.

Clinical Features

  • UV protection: Human trials show 
    In a 60-day trial of 40 adults, 480 mg a day did not change safety tests, and skin tolerated more UV light before turning red than with placebo. In a study of 9 adults, skin samples showed fewer signs of DNA damage after UV light. This is not a sunscreen.
  • Anti-aging: 
    In cell studies, the extract raised collagen and lowered MMP-1, an enzyme that breaks collagen down. This has not been confirmed in people.

Dosing
Dermal Radiance provides 240 mg of Polypodium leucotomos leaf extract per serving. The 60-day human trial used 480 mg a day.

often divided into 2 doses. Best taken before sun exposure for photoprotection.

Safety
 Well tolerated in studies, even at high doses. Mild side effects may include stomach upset or itching. Safe for long-term use. Dermal Radiance is made for adults.

Mechanism of Action

  • Antioxidant defense: Neutralizes ROS (reactive oxygen species) from UV exposure.
  • DNA protection: Prevents UV-induced mutations in skin cells.
  • Collagen preservation: Inhibits matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that break down collagen.
  • Immune modulation: Reduces overactive immune responses in psoriasis and dermatitis.
  • Pigment regulation: Lowers oxidative stress in melanocytes, balancing melanin production.

1. Middelkamp-Hup MA, Pathak MA, Parrado C, et al. Oral Polypodium leucotomos extract decreases ultraviolet-induced damage of human skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2004;51(6):910-918. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2004.06.027. PMID: 15583582.
2. Nestor MS, Berman B, Swenson N. Safety and efficacy of oral Polypodium leucotomos extract in healthy adult subjects. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2015;8(2):19-23.
3. Kohli I, Shafi R, Isedeh P, et al. The impact of oral Polypodium leucotomos extract on ultraviolet B response: a human clinical study. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2017;77(1):33-41.e1. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2017.01.044. PMID: 28341348.
4. Prado G, Winkelmann R, Del Rosso J, Rigel D. Clinical efficacy & safety of oral Polypodium leucotomos extract for photoprotection: a systematic review. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2019;81(4 Suppl 1):AB32. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2019.06.154.
5. Parrado C, Mascaraque M, Gilaberte Y, Juarranz A, Gonzalez S. Fernblock (Polypodium leucotomos extract): molecular mechanisms and pleiotropic effects in light-related skin conditions, photoaging and skin cancers, a review. Int J Mol Sci. 2016;17(7):1026. doi:10.3390/ijms17071026. PMID: 27367679.
6. Gonzalez S, Gilaberte Y, Philips N, Juarranz A. Fernblock, a nutriceutical with photoprotective properties and potential preventive agent for skin photoaging and photoinduced skin cancers. Int J Mol Sci. 2011;12(12):8466-8475. doi:10.3390/ijms12128466. PMID: 22272084.

Green Tea (Camellia sinensis) leaf extract (50% epigallocatechin)

Green Tea (Camellia sinensis) leaf extract (50% epigallocatechin)

Background
Green tea (Camellia sinensis) is one of the most widely studied plants for health and longevity. Its leaf extract is rich in antioxidants, particularly epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), which protects cells from oxidative damage. For skin, green tea has been studied for elasticity, texture, blood flow and the response to UV light.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
Green tea has been consumed in China and Japan for over 4,000 years 
as a daily drink. Topically, green tea leaves were used in traditional medicine to soothe wounds and skin irritation. Modern supplements extract and standardize catechins, especially EGCG, for consistent potency.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
The main active compounds are catechins, including EGCG, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, and epicatechin gallate. EGCG is the catechin that researchers study most.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
Catechins are absorbed in the small intestine, but EGCG has limited bioavailability. Absorption improves when taken without dairy and with vitamin C. Once absorbed, catechins circulate in the blood and reach the skin, where they help protect against UV and pollution damage.

Current Availability and Use
Green tea extract is widely sold as capsules, tablets, and powders. It is also used in skincare products for its soothing and protective effects. Standardized extracts ensure high levels of EGCG for consistent results.

Clinical Features

  • Anti-aging: In a 12-week trial, women who drank green tea catechins (1,402 mg a day) had better skin elasticity, roughness, scaling, density and water balance.
  • UV protection: In the same trial, skin redness after UV light was 16% lower at 6 weeks and 25% lower at 12 weeks. Green tea is not a sunscreen.
  • Antioxidant defense: Neutralizes ROS, protecting collagen and elastin from breakdown.

Dosing
Dermal Radiance provides 100 mg of green tea leaf extract per serving (50% epigallocatechin). Skin trials used 500 mg to 1,402 mg of green tea polyphenols or catechins a day.

Topical creams and serums often contain 2–5% green tea extract. Take with a meal, as the label directs.

Safety
Generally safe at recommended levels. High doses (>800 mg/day EGCG) may cause liver stress in rare cases. Should be avoided with stimulant medications due to mild caffeine content. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before you take any supplement.

Mechanism of Action

  • Antioxidant: EGCG neutralizes ROS that age skin.
  • Collagen preservation: Inhibits matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that degrade collagen.
  • Anti-inflammatory: Reduces NF-κB signaling and pro-inflammatory cytokines.
  1. National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health. Green Tea: Usefulness and Safety. Last updated February 2025. https://www.nccih.nih.gov/health/green-tea
  2. Heinrich U, Moore CE, De Spirt S, Tronnier H, Stahl W. Green tea polyphenols provide photoprotection, increase microcirculation, and modulate skin properties of women. J Nutr. 2011;141(6):1202-1208. doi:10.3945/jn.110.136465. PMID: 21525260.
  3. Janjua R, Munoz C, Gorell E, Rehmus W, Egbert B, Kern D, Chang ALS. A two-year, double-blind, randomized placebo-controlled trial of oral green tea polyphenols on the long-term clinical and histologic appearance of photoaging skin. Dermatol Surg. 2009;35(7):1057-1065. doi:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2009.01183.x. PMID: 19469799.
  4. Chiu AE, Chan JL, Kern DG, Kohler S, Rehmus WE, Kimball AB. Double-blinded, placebo-controlled trial of green tea extracts in the clinical and histologic appearance of photoaging skin. Dermatol Surg. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):855-860. doi:10.1111/j.1524-4725.2005.31731. PMID: 16029678.
  5. European Food Safety Authority. EFSA assesses safety of green tea catechins. News item, April 18, 2018. https://www.efsa.europa.eu/en/press/news/180418
Grape (Vitis vinifera) seed extract (95% Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins)

Grape (Vitis vinifera) seed extract (95% Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins)

Background
Grape seed extract is derived from the seeds of red grapes and is one of the richest natural sources of oligomeric proanthocyanidins (OPCs). These are powerful antioxidants that protect the skin from free radical damage, support collagen, and improve circulation. For skin, grape seed extract has been studied, as part of nutrient mixes, for skin tone, radiance, elasticity and hydration.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
Grape seeds have been used for centuries in Mediterranean diets, especially through wine and grape consumption. In the 20th century, scientists identified OPCs in grape seeds as potent antioxidants, leading to their use in supplements for cardiovascular and skin health.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
The extract contains 95% OPCs, a type of flavonoid. OPCs are antioxidants. In lab and animal studies, they attached to collagen and elastin fibers and slowed their breakdown.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
OPCs are absorbed in the small intestine and circulate in the bloodstream within 2–3 hours. The body metabolizes them into phenolic acids before excretion.

Current Availability and Use
Grape seed extract has been available since the 1980s and is sold in capsules, tablets, and powders. It is a common ingredient in skin-health and anti-aging supplements.

Clinical Features

  • Anti-aging: In an 8-week study, a supplement with grape seed extract, melon concentrate, vitamin C and zinc was followed by higher skin luminosity and elasticity scores. In a 56-day placebo-controlled trial, a formula with grape seed extract, niacinamide, vitamin C and vitamin E improved skin tone and gloss.
  • Collagen protection: In a 6-month study in men, a supplement with grape seed extract was followed by more collagen and elastic fibers in skin.

Dosing
Dermal Radiance provides 50 mg of grape seed extract per serving (95% OPC). Best taken with food.

Safety
Grape seed extract is generally safe. Mild side effects may include nausea or headache. It may increase bleeding risk in people taking blood thinners. Little is known about the safety of grape seed extract during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Ask your doctor before you take any supplement.

Mechanism of Action

  • Antioxidant defense: OPCs neutralize ROS and regenerate vitamins C and E.
  • Collagen stabilization: Binds to collagen fibers, making them more resistant to breakdown.
  • Anti-inflammatory: Reduces cytokines like IL-1β and TNF-α in skin tissues.
  • Vascular support: Enhances nitric oxide production, improving microcirculation in skin.
  1. National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health. Grape Seed Extract: Usefulness and Safety. Last updated February 2025. https://www.nccih.nih.gov/health/grape-seed-extract
  2. Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center. About Herbs: Grape Seed. Last updated February 10, 2022. https://www.mskcc.org/cancer-care/integrative-medicine/herbs/grape-seed
  3. Huang J, Li S, Yao Y, Zhang H, Zhao L, Wang L, Zhang C. Grape seed extract supplement with nicotinamide, vitamin C and vitamin E improved skin condition in human. Curr Dev Nutr. 2024;8:102349. Meeting abstract P03-022-24. doi:10.1016/j.cdnut.2024.102349.
  4. Dumoulin M, Gaudout D, Lemaire B. Clinical effects of an oral supplement rich in antioxidants on skin radiance in women. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016;9:315-324. doi:10.2147/CCID.S118920. PMID: 27799805.
  5. Costa A, Pegas Pereira ES, Assumpção EC, et al. Assessment of clinical effects and safety of an oral supplement based on marine protein, vitamin C, grape seed extract, zinc, and tomato extract in the improvement of visible signs of skin aging in men. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2015;8:319. doi:10.2147/CCID.S79447. PMID: 26170708.
Alpha Lipoic Acid

Alpha Lipoic Acid

Background
Alpha lipoic acid (ALA) is a naturally occurring compound made in small amounts by the body and also found in certain foods. It is both water- and fat-soluble, allowing it to work in nearly every cell. In a controlled study, a 5% alpha lipoic acid cream lowered skin roughness on the face over 12 weeks.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
 ALA was first discovered in the 1950s as a key cofactor for mitochondrial enzymes involved in energy production. Food sources include spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, and organ meats.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
 ALA (C₈H₁₄O₂S₂) exists in two forms: R-ALA (natural, biologically active) and S-ALA (synthetic). It is converted in the body to dihydrolipoic acid (DHLA), another powerful antioxidant. Together, they recycle vitamins C and E and support glutathione, the body’s master antioxidant.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
 ALA is absorbed in the small intestine, with peak levels in the blood within 30–60 minutes of intake. The body absorbs about 30% to 40% of a dose taken by mouth. It is metabolized in the liver and excreted mainly in urine.

Current Availability and Use
 ALA is sold worldwide in capsules, tablets, and topical creams. It is included in skin, anti-aging, and metabolic health supplements.

Clinical Features

  • Anti-aging: In a controlled study of 33 women, a 5% alpha lipoic acid cream lowered skin roughness on the face more than a control cream over 12 weeks.
  • Antioxidant defense: In lab tests, lipoic acid neutralizes reactive molecules.
  • Circulation support: In an animal study, alpha lipoic acid improved blood flow in the skin of aging rats.

Dosing
 Dermal Radiance provides 40 mg of alpha lipoic acid per serving. Supplements usually contain 50 mg to 600 mg. For skin health, topical formulations use 3–5% ALA. 
Take Dermal Radiance with a meal, as the label directs. Food lowers the amount of alpha lipoic acid in the blood by about 20%.

Safety
 Generally safe at recommended doses. High doses may cause mild nausea, rash, or dizziness. Safe in adults; limited data in pregnancy and breastfeeding, so supplementation should be supervised. 
Alpha lipoic acid can lower blood sugar. If you take insulin or other diabetes medicines, talk to your doctor before you take it.

Mechanism of Action

  • Antioxidant activity: Neutralizes ROS (reactive oxygen species) in both water- and fat-soluble environments.
  • Vitamin recycling: Restores oxidized vitamin C, vitamin E, and glutathione.
  • Mitochondrial support: Helps enzymes in the cell turn food into energy.
  1. Shay KP, Moreau RF, Smith EJ, Smith AR, Hagen TM. Alpha-lipoic acid as a dietary supplement: molecular mechanisms and therapeutic potential. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2009;1790(10):1149-1160. doi:10.1016/j.bbagen.2009.07.026. PMID: 19664690.
  2. Beitner H. Randomized, placebo-controlled, double blind study on the clinical efficacy of a cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid related to photoageing of facial skin. Br J Dermatol. 2003;149(4):841-849. doi:10.1046/j.1365-2133.2003.05597.x. PMID: 14616378.
  3. Biewenga GP, Haenen GR, Bast A. The pharmacology of the antioxidant lipoic acid. Gen Pharmacol. 1997;29(3):315-331. doi:10.1016/S0306-3623(96)00474-0. PMID: 9378235.
  4. Packer L, Witt EH, Tritschler H. Alpha-lipoic acid as a biological antioxidant. Free Radic Biol Med. 1995;19(2):227-250. doi:10.1016/0891-5849(95)00017-R. PMID: 7649494.
  5. de Bengy AF, Decorps J, Martin LS, Pagnon A, Chevalier FP, Sigaudo-Roussel D, Fromy B. Alpha-lipoic acid supplementation restores early age-related sensory and endothelial dysfunction in the skin. Biomedicines. 2022;10(11):2887. doi:10.3390/biomedicines10112887. PMID: 36359407.
  6. Linus Pauling Institute, Oregon State University. Micronutrient Information Center: Lipoic Acid. Updated October 2018; reviewed January 2019. https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/dietary-factors/lipoic-acid
  7. Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center. About Herbs: Alpha-Lipoic Acid. Last updated July 31, 2026. https://www.mskcc.org/cancer-care/integrative-medicine/herbs/alpha-lipoic-acid
Pomegranate fruit extract (Punica granatum)

Pomegranate fruit extract (Punica granatum)

Background
Pomegranate (Punica granatum) is a fruit rich in polyphenols, mainly punicalagins and ellagic acid. 
Three small human trials have tested pomegranate by mouth for skin.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
 Native to the Middle East and South Asia, pomegranate has been cultivated for over 3,000 years. Today, pomegranate fruit extract is standardized for polyphenols to ensure consistent skin-health benefits.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
 Pomegranate extract contains ellagic acid, punicalagins, anthocyanins, flavonoids, and vitamin C. In lab tests, punicalagins and ellagic acid act as antioxidants.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
 Polyphenols in pomegranate are absorbed in the intestine and metabolized into urolithins by gut bacteria. The body can absorb these smaller compounds.

Current Availability and Use
 Pomegranate extract is sold in capsules, tablets, and powders, as well as in topical creams and serums.

Clinical Features.

  • Wrinkle score: In a 4-week trial, 250 mg of pomegranate extract a day was followed by a 6.2% lower wrinkle severity score.
  • Skin and UV light: In a 12-week trial, women who took 1,000 mg of pomegranate extract or 8 ounces of juice a day needed more UV light to redden the skin than women on placebo. Pomegranate is not a sunscreen
  • Hydration: In a 3-month trial, skin hydration and elasticity improved with a mix of pomegranate and Polypodium leucotomos, and also with Polypodium leucotomos alone.

Dosing
Dermal Radiance provides 15 mg of pomegranate fruit extract per serving. Trials have used 250 mg to 1,000 mg a day. Topical formulations often use 0.5–5% extract in creams or serums.

Safety
 Generally safe and well tolerated. Rare side effects may include mild stomach upset. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your doctor before you take any supplement. If you take warfarin or a statin, talk to your doctor before you take pomegranate.

Mechanism of Action

  • Antioxidant defense: Punicalagins and ellagic acid neutralize ROS and protect DNA.
  1. National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health, National Institutes of Health. Pomegranate. Last updated April 2025. https://www.nccih.nih.gov/health/pomegranate
  2. Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center. About Herbs: Pomegranate. Last updated November 11, 2022. https://www.mskcc.org/cancer-care/integrative-medicine/herbs/pomegranate
  3. Henning SM, Yang J, Lee RP, Huang J, Hsu M, Thames G, Gilbuena I, Long J, Xu Y, Park EH, Tseng CH, Kim J, Heber D, Li Z. Pomegranate juice and extract consumption increases the resistance to UVB-induced erythema and changes the skin microbiome in healthy women: a randomized controlled trial. Sci Rep. 2019;9(1):14528. doi:10.1038/s41598-019-50926-2. PMID: 31601842.
  4. Chakkalakal M, Nadora D, Gahoonia N, Dumont A, Burney W, Pan A, Chambers CJ, Sivamani RK. Prospective randomized double-blind placebo-controlled study of oral pomegranate extract on skin wrinkles, biophysical features, and the gut-skin axis. J Clin Med. 2022;11(22):6724. doi:10.3390/jcm11226724.
  5. Emanuele E, Bertona M, Biagi M. Comparative effects of a fixed Polypodium leucotomos/Pomegranate combination versus Polypodium leucotomos alone on skin biophysical parameters. Neuro Endocrinol Lett. 2017;38(1):38-42. PMID: 28456146.
Astaxanthin

Astaxanthin

Background
Astaxanthin is a red-orange carotenoid pigment found in microalgae, salmon, shrimp, and krill. Astaxanthin is an antioxidant. In lab tests, it was more active than vitamin E. For skin, astaxanthin supports elasticity, reduces wrinkles, and protects against UV-induced aging.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
 Astaxanthin is mainly derived from the freshwater microalga Haematococcus pluvialis. Historically, humans consumed it indirectly by eating salmon and shellfish, which accumulate the pigment. In Japan, astaxanthin-rich algae have been used in traditional foods, but modern supplements extract and concentrate it for skin and eye health.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
 Astaxanthin (C40H52O4) is a xanthophyll carotenoid. Its unique structure allows it to span across cell membranes, protecting both the inner and outer layers from oxidative damage.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
 Astaxanthin is fat-soluble and best absorbed with dietary oils. After absorption in the small intestine, it is transported by lipoproteins and distributed to tissues, including skin. Studies show it accumulates in skin layers, where it provides long-lasting antioxidant protection.

Current Availability and Use
 Astaxanthin has been commercially available since the 1990s. It is sold in capsules, softgels, and functional foods. It is widely used in anti-aging, skin-brightening, and eye-health supplements.

Clinical Features

  • Anti-aging: In a 2021 review of 8 placebo-controlled trials, astaxanthin taken by mouth improved skin moisture and elasticity. The change in wrinkle depth was not statistically significant. The trials used 2 to 12 mg a day for 4 to 16 weeks.
  • UV protection: Lowers sunburn risk and DNA damage from UV exposure.
  • Skin hydration: Improves moisture levels and smoothness.
  • Pigmentation balance: Helps reduce dark spots and uneven tone.
  • Antioxidant defense: In lab tests, astaxanthin showed more antioxidant activity than vitamin E and several other carotenoids. These are test-tube results.

Dosing
Dermal Radiance provides 12 mg of astaxanthin per serving. Skin trials have used 2 to 12 mg a day for 4 to 16 weeks.
Best taken with meals containing fat for absorption.

Safety
 Astaxanthin is considered very safe. Mild side effects may include orange discoloration of the skin at very high intakes, which is harmless. Safe for long-term use, but more research is needed in pregnancy and breastfeeding.

Mechanism of Action

  • Antioxidant shield: Neutralizes ROS and singlet oxygen in skin cells.
  • Collagen support: Inhibits enzymes (MMPs) that break down collagen and elastin.
  • Anti-inflammatory: Reduces cytokines like IL-1β and TNF-α, calming skin irritation.
  • Photoprotection: Accumulates in skin, blocking UV-induced oxidative stress.
  • Membrane protection: Stabilizes cell membranes by spanning both lipid and water layers.

1. Tominaga K, Hongo N, Karato M, Yamashita E. Cosmetic benefits of astaxanthin on humans subjects. Acta Biochim Pol. 2012;59(1):43-47. doi:10.18388/abp.2012_2168. PMID: 22428137.
2. Tominaga K, Hongo N, Fujishita M, Takahashi Y, Adachi Y. Protective effects of astaxanthin on skin deterioration. J Clin Biochem Nutr. 2017;61(1):33-39. doi:10.3164/jcbn.17-35. PMID: 28751807.
3. Ito N, Seki S, Ueda F. The protective role of astaxanthin for UV-induced skin deterioration in healthy people. Nutrients. 2018;10(7):817. doi:10.3390/nu10070817. PMID: 29941810.
4. Zhou X, Cao Q, Orfila C, Zhao J, Zhang L. Systematic review and meta-analysis on the effects of astaxanthin on human skin ageing. Nutrients. 2021;13(9):2917. doi:10.3390/nu13092917. PMID: 34578794.
5. Ambati RR, Phang SM, Ravi S, Aswathanarayana RG. Astaxanthin: sources, extraction, stability, biological activities and its commercial applications—a review. Mar Drugs. 2014;12(1):128-152. doi:10.3390/md12010128. PMID: 24402174.
6. Higuera-Ciapara I, et al. Astaxanthin: a review of its chemistry and applications. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2006;46(2):185-196. doi:10.1080/10408690590957188. PMID: 16431409.
7. EFSA Panel on Nutrition, Novel Foods and Food Allergens. Safety of astaxanthin for its use as a novel food in food supplements. EFSA Journal. 2020;18(2):5993. doi:10.2903/j.efsa.2020.5993.

Lycopene

Lycopene

Background
Lycopene is a bright red carotenoid pigment found in tomatoes, watermelon, pink grapefruit, and other red fruits. It is a strong antioxidant that protects cells from oxidative damage. For skin, lycopene helps reduce wrinkles, protect against UV damage, and maintain an even, radiant complexion.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
 Lycopene has been consumed for centuries through diets rich in tomatoes and other red fruits. The Mediterranean diet, high in tomato-based foods, has long been linked to healthy skin and lower signs of aging. Modern supplements extract lycopene from tomatoes for concentrated antioxidant support.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
 Lycopene (C₄₀H₅₆) is a carotenoid but unlike beta-carotene, it cannot be converted into vitamin A. Its antioxidant capacity comes from its 11 conjugated double bonds, which efficiently neutralize free radicals and protect skin lipids, proteins, and DNA.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
 Lycopene is fat-soluble and better absorbed when consumed with oils. Cooking tomatoes in oil enhances its bioavailability. After absorption, it circulates in lipoproteins and accumulates in tissues, especially skin, where it provides UV protection.

Current Availability and Use
 Lycopene supplements have been available since the 1990s. They are sold in capsules, softgels, and multivitamins, often marketed for skin, eye, and cardiovascular health.

Clinical Features

  • UV protection: In a 12-week trial, about 10 mg of lycopene a day was followed by 25% to 48% less skin redness after a measured dose of UV light. Lycopene is not a sunscreen.
  • Anti-aging: In a 12-week trial, tomato paste with 16 mg of lycopene led to less of the collagen-breakdown enzyme MMP-1 after UV light, and a marker of new collagen rose
  • Antioxidant defense: Neutralizes ROS, protecting against photoaging

Dosing
Typical oral dose: 5–15 mg/day. 
Dermal Radiance provides 8 mg of lycopene per serving. Skin studies have used about 10 mg to 16 mg a day for 10 to 12 weeks. Best taken with meals containing fat.

Safety
 Lycopene is very safe. Very high doses may cause a harmless skin discoloration (orange tint). No major side effects are reported. Safe for pregnancy, breastfeeding, and children at dietary levels.

Mechanism of Action

  • Antioxidant shield: Quenches singlet oxygen and neutralizes ROS.
  • Collagen protection: Prevents breakdown by blocking matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs).
  • UV defense: Reduces DNA and lipid damage from sunlight.
  • Anti-inflammatory: Lowers cytokines like IL-1β and TNF-α.
  • Skin pigmentation: Regulates oxidative stress in melanocytes, balancing melanin.
  1. Stahl W, Heinrich U, Wiseman S, Eichler O, Sies H, Tronnier H. Dietary tomato paste protects against ultraviolet light-induced erythema in humans. J Nutr. 2001;131(5):1449-1451. doi:10.1093/jn/131.5.1449. PMID: 11340098.
  2. Aust O, Stahl W, Sies H, Tronnier H, Heinrich U. Supplementation with tomato-based products increases lycopene, phytofluene, and phytoene levels in human serum and protects against UV-light-induced erythema. Int J Vitam Nutr Res. 2005;75(1):54-60. doi:10.1024/0300-9831.75.1.54. PMID: 15830922.
  3. Rizwan M, Rodriguez-Blanco I, Harbottle A, Birch-Machin MA, Watson REB, Rhodes LE. Tomato paste rich in lycopene protects against cutaneous photodamage in humans in vivo: a randomized controlled trial. Br J Dermatol. 2011;164(1):154-162. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2133.2010.10057.x. PMID: 20854436.
  4. Grether-Beck S, Marini A, Jaenicke T, Stahl W, Krutmann J. Molecular evidence that oral supplementation with lycopene or lutein protects human skin against ultraviolet radiation. Br J Dermatol. 2017;176(5):1231-1240. doi:10.1111/bjd.15080. PMID: 27662341.
  5. Linus Pauling Institute. Micronutrient Information Center: Carotenoids. https://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/dietary-factors/phytochemicals/carotenoids
Lutein

Lutein

Background
Lutein is a yellow-orange carotenoid from the xanthophyll family. It is best known for supporting eye health, but research shows it also benefits skin by protecting against UV damage, improving hydration, and reducing wrinkles. As a strong antioxidant, lutein helps keep skin radiant and youthful.

Origin, Source, and Traditional/Historical Use
 Lutein is naturally found in leafy greens (spinach, kale), corn, egg yolks, and marigold flowers. For centuries, diets rich in these foods were associated with healthy eyes and skin. Modern supplements extract lutein, often from marigold petals, and standardize it for consistent antioxidant benefits.

Key Active Compounds and Chemical Composition
 Lutein (C₄₀H₅₆O₂) is a fat-soluble carotenoid. Unlike beta-carotene, it cannot be converted to vitamin A. Its structure allows it to filter high-energy blue light and neutralize reactive oxygen species (ROS), which damage skin and eyes.

Bioavailability, Absorption, and Metabolism
 Lutein is absorbed in the small intestine with dietary fats and transported in the blood by lipoproteins. It accumulates in the skin and eyes, especially in the macula. Bioavailability improves when taken with oils or in softgel formulations.

Current Availability and Use
 Lutein supplements have been widely available since the 1990s and are often included in eye- and skin-health formulas. It is sold in capsules, softgels, and powders, usually combined with zeaxanthin or other carotenoids.

Clinical Features

  • Skin hydration: In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial in women, lutein and zeaxanthin improved skin hydration compared with placebo.
  • Elasticity and wrinkles: 
    In the same trial, skin elasticity and surface lipids also improved compared with placebo.
  • UV protection: In a study of 65 volunteers, 12 weeks of lutein limited the UV-triggered rise in the gene for MMP-1, an enzyme that breaks collagen down. Lutein is not a sunscreen.
  • Skin tone: In a 12-week trial, 10 mg of lutein with 2 mg of zeaxanthin improved overall skin tone compared with placebo.
  • Antioxidant defense: Works with lycopene and beta-carotene to stabilize collagen and elastin.

Dosing
Typical dose: 6–20 mg/day. 
Dermal Radiance provides 8 mg of lutein per serving. Skin studies have used 10 mg or 20 mg a day for 12 weeks. Best taken with meals containing fat.

Safety
 Lutein is very safe, with no known toxicity. Extremely high intakes may cause a harmless yellowing of the skin (carotenodermia). Safe for long-term use and during pregnancy at dietary levels.

Mechanism of Action

  • Blue-light filter: Absorbs high-energy light that causes oxidative stress.
  • Antioxidant activity: Neutralizes ROS in skin and eye tissues.
  • Collagen protection: Reduces breakdown from matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs).
  • UV defense: Prevents lipid and DNA oxidation in skin cells.
  • Synergistic action: Works with other carotenoids to enhance skin protection.

1. Palombo P, Fabrizi G, Ruocco V, Ruocco E, Fluhr J, Roberts R, Morganti P. Beneficial long-term effects of combined oral/topical antioxidant treatment with the carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin on human skin: a double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2007;20(4):199-210. doi:10.1159/000101807. PMID: 17446716.
2. Juturu V, Bowman JP, Deshpande J. Overall skin tone and skin-lightening-improving effects with oral supplementation of lutein and zeaxanthin isomers: a double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2016;9:325-332. doi:10.2147/CCID.S115519. PMID: 27785083.
3. Grether-Beck S, Marini A, Jaenicke T, Stahl W, Krutmann J. Molecular evidence that oral supplementation with lycopene or lutein protects human skin against ultraviolet radiation. Br J Dermatol. 2017;176(5):1231-1240. doi:10.1111/bjd.15080. PMID: 27662341.
4. Roberts RL, Green J, Lewis B. Lutein and zeaxanthin in eye and skin health. Clin Dermatol. 2009;27(2):195-201. doi:10.1016/j.clindermatol.2008.01.011. PMID: 19168000.
5. Fiedor J, Burda K. Potential role of carotenoids as antioxidants in human health and disease. Nutrients. 2014;6(2):466-488. doi:10.3390/nu6020466. PMID: 24473231.
6. EFSA Panel on Food Additives and Nutrient Sources added to Food. Scientific Opinion on the re-evaluation of lutein (E 161b) as a food additive. EFSA Journal. 2010;8(7):1678. doi:10.2903/j.efsa.2010.1678.